Valenca

Today marked the beginning of a 10 day festival and street party in Valenca.

We took a later boat to Valenca from Galeao and arranged hotels for the evening.

On Sunday proceedings began with a ceremonial cleaning of the church.The big one up on the hill.


I missed this and the beginning of the fiesta. However early in the afternoon I met up with Ron and Marli and we went up to a residential area behind the church where every second house seemed to have turned into a temporary bar and the streets were packed with people.

In the evening mayor Tio Ramiro had arranged a free concert. The stage was huge trailer kitted out with massive speakers, changing rooms and a two way stage. It was positioned in the middle of a car park with crowds on either side.


There were three bands and a full on Brazilian tranny danced on a platform above the stage.


It was all very good natured until late in the evening, annoyed at a delay between acts, some in the crowd started hurling drink cans. At this point I left.

Punta do Curral and Galeao

We returned to Galeao on the 20th, this time on a falling tide. There were a few moments in some of the shallower sections but Cairu was reached without and problems and from there to Galeao there is plenty of water.

The next few days were occupied with preparations and repairs for the trip south. I covered exposed parts of the aft shrouds with anti-chafe plastic hose, replaced worn anti-chafe on the Aries lines and oiled all moving parts on the Aries. Anti-chafe plastic hose was fitted to the running backstays where they rub on the spreaders.

The domestic radio was replaced with a similar Sony unit and four replacement speakers sourced in Valenca. All for lack of pressing a tiny button on the radio. Another example of the importance of RTFB. The bilge was cleaned and the automatic pump switch repaired.

During another quick visit to Ponto do Curral I was able to give the hull a good scrape. The fouling was extensive and will need more attention before it is completely clean. I took the dinghy over to Gamboa for a quick look around. On the way back to Galeao I had a relaxing sail all the way back to the anchorage.

Galeao to Punta do Curral

29 October 2008

An early 05:00 start to catch the outgoing tide. When I bought the dinghy on board it was heavily fouled and I lost 40 minutes getting it clean enough to stow away.

I weighed anchor at 06:40 and waved goodbye to Ron and Marli on Sula. I have mixed feelings about my stay here but they have been fabulous hosts and very generous with their hospitality. Thanks Ron and Marli.

Morro Sao Paulo was rounded at 09:00, all sails deployed and the engine stopped. Initially the wind was light, ENE 2/3 and progress was slow. Later in the morning it strengthened to F4 fluctuating between NE and ESE.

On course to pass outside the Abrolhos islands Kiriwina was sailing along nicely at between 4-5 knots. Noon saw Boipeba abeam to starboard about 7 miles away and a large oil platform was left astern to seaward.



Similar conditions prevailed throughout the afternoon and into the evening and Kiriwina made good progress. The Superwind was keeping up with electricity consumption with the fridge, instruments and nav lights all running.

30 October 2008

During the early hours the wind backed to the north. By morning it was fine on the port quarter. with the main out to starboard on a preventer.

Ilheus was abeam to starboard at 08:00 some 23 mile away. The main was sheeted well out to starboard on a preventer with 1/3 yankee out as well. A northbound naval tug passed to seaward and the engine was run for an hour to charge the batteries. The fridge was gobbling power.

Noon Run 95.03 miles.

A helicopter passed overhead bound SE and returned 20 minutes later. At 14:00 we were well into deep water at 1600m.

Sunset at 17:30 was very red indeed. At 20:45 the depth went from >1000m to <30m as the northern edge of Banco Royal Charlotte was crossed with 7 fishing boats in the immediate area.

31 October 2008

The wind increased to F5 overnight but remained more or less astern. The yankee was furled and 2 reefs put in the main. Porto Seguro was 40 miles abeam to starboard at 04:00.

During the morning I saw several whales jumping and spouting about 2 miles inshore. A northbound ship passed on the horizon to seaward and a loaded southbound tanker passed inshore.

Noon Run: 101.80 miles.

Conditions remained unchanged until 22:00 when the wind eased to F3 and the reefs were shaken out of the main.

Canaveiras to Galeao

More Leaks

Yet more deckhead leaks. This time from above the main switch panel. Water had been dripping directly on to the domestic radio. Another session with the drill and epoxy filler.

I'm still baffled as to why these holes were drilled in the first place.


Here the holes were partially covered by a joinery batten. I had to cut into the batten to expose the holes for filling.

Canaveiras - Marli's Birthday

Today was Marli's birthday. Early in the afternoon we went ashore to the oyster bar and stayed there until early evening, eating drinking and swimming. It was pretty busy with many tour boats stopping for an hour or so for drinks and oysters.

Visitors included an Australian plumber and his family from Melbourne and the newly elected mayor of Valenca, Tio Ramiro, who came round and shook our hands.

Marli with a birthday message.


We all jumped off the oyster bay for a swim.


Evening at the oyster bar.


In the evening there was a big fiesta at a village across the river. I managed to get there but faded rapidly and after an hour or so returned to Kiriwina.

Sao Francisco to Canaveiras

We stayed a couple of days in Sao Francisco, a nice quiet little place and one that is well hidden away. If we were not the first yachts to call there they are certainly few and far between.

Around mid afternoon we weighed anchor and wandered, drifting with the tide, sailing a bit and motoring, back to Canavieras.

A cosy little palm grove amongst the mangroves between Sao Francisco and Canavieras.


We dropped anchor off Canavieras just before 18:00 and went ashore for some oysters

On Passage 29-31 October

Day 1 - Wednesday 29th October 2008

An early start at 05:00 to catch the outgoing tide. When the dinghy was hoisted on board it was heavily fouled and I lost 40 minutes cleaning it enough to be stowed away.

I weighed anchor at 06:40 and waved goodbye to Ron and Marli aboard Sula. I have mixed feelings about my stay in Galeao but they have been fabulous hosts and very generous with their hospitality. Thanks Ron and Marli.

Morro Sao Paulo was rounded at 09:00 and course set to pass outside the Abrolhos islands. The engine was turned off and all sails hoisted. Initially progress was slow in light ENE 2-3 winds. Later in the morning it strengthened to F4 fluctuating between NE and ENE giving a speed between 4 and 5 knots. It was a lovely day with clear skies and the sea a deep clear blue.

At 12:00 Boipeba was abeam to starboard some 7 miles away and a large oil platform was left astern to seaward.



Similar conditions persisted throughout the afternoon and evening. It was good sailing.

Day 2 - Thursday 30th October 2008

During the early hours the wind backed to the north. By morning it was fine on the port quarter. One ship and an oil platform were passed during the night.

At 08:00 Ilheus was 23 miles abeam to starboard. The fridge was consuming a lot of power and I had to run the engine for an hour to charge the batteries. The staysail was furled and we continued under full main sheeted out to starboard and 1/3 yankee.

Noon Run: 95.03 miles.

At 12:50 a helicopter passed overhead bound SE. It returned 15 minutes later. The wind increased to F5. By 14:00 the continental shelf was left behind with depths >1600m.

Sunset at 17:30 was very red indeed. At 20:45 the depth went from >100m to <30m as the northern edge of Banco Royal Charlotte was crossed with 7 fishing boats in the immediate vicinity. The wind remained F5 N-NE for the rest of the night.

Day 3 - Friday 31st October 2008

At 04:00 Porto Seguro was some 40 miles abeam to starboard.

During the morning I saw several whales jumping and spouting about 2 miles away inshore. One northbound vessel passed on the horizon to seaward and a loaded southbound tanker passed inshore.

Noon Run: 101.80 miles

Around 20:00 the wind eased to F3 and the main reefs were shaken out.


Sao Francisco

The route in was surveyed and at high tide just before 15:00 we weighed anchor and moved into a deep pool (7.0m) off the long jetty at Sao Francisco.

Sao Francisco is a small fishing village on the mainland about 2.5 miles from Camamu bay and the open sea along the route taken during our visit by launch to
Sao Sebastiao. The anchorage is excellent.

Kiriwina at anchor in Sao Francisco pool.


Fishing boat jetty at Sao Francisco.

Galeao to Sao Francisco

Before going south I need to attend to some repairs and get replacements for the domestic radio and speakers.

Meantime we are going further into the Costa Dende hinterland to visit Sao Francisco.

Leaving Galeao at 13:00 we followed the same track past Cairu and Canaveiras before continuing past Rio Inferno and anchoring off Ilha de Aranha just short of Sao Francisco.

There were extensive sandbanks off Sao Francisco and rocky outcrops were visible along the shore. It would be necessary to survey a route in at low water before proceeding.

Sao Francisco in the distance with sandbanks and rocks in between.


At anchor off Ilha de Aranha.


Later Ron cooked another of his excellent roasts. Thanks Ron.

Galeao

On the way back from Salvador my domestic radio would not work. I fiddled about with it but after careful perusal of the handbook realised that I had failed to reset the unit after connecting new batteries.

My subsequent fiddling destroyed the radio and 4 speakers. They will all need to be replaced

Salvador to Galeao

The plan now is to head south for Buenos Aires stopping on the way for fuel and water as necessary.

In the morning I cleared out with Policia Federal and Receita Federal. There was a delay clearing out with the
Capitania dos Portos and I did not leave Centro Nautico until 12:50.

Had an excellent sail back to Galeao where I wanted too say my goodbyes. The river passage from Morro Sao Paulo to Galeao was at night and I had a moment when the draught dropped to less than 2 metres as I strayed a tad off my course just past Morro.

It was a quick passage up river on a flooding tide and we anchored off Galeao at 23:35.

Salvador

An early start this morning. I was up at 5:30 to cover the sails and get the boat ready for mooring.

First stop was a trip to the bunker barge a few 100 metres away to fill up with diesel and top up with gasoline for the outboard. I took 70 litres of diesel at R$2.14 per litre. Back in March when I took diesel here it was R$1.89 per litre. However, the last time I checked the Real was 3.75 to the pound compared with around 3.30 in March.

It was difficult to avoid the tyre fendering on the barge which left some nasty black marks on my cream hull. Kiriwina was all fast at Centro Nautico, Salvador, by 07:45.

A quick hello to
Manfred on "Maus" who is sailing tomorrow for New Zealand via the Kergulen islands. A voyage of some 4 months and 11,000 miles.

My first job was battery replacement. I took a taxi up to
Xavier Paim & Cie. They had the batteries I wanted and with outstanding service delivered them to the boat complete with a mechanic to assist with installation and testing at 12:00.

This time I went for basic 100 A/H lead acid batteries, Turbo, made in Brazil. The price was an eye watering R$430, about twice the UK price.



I hope they will do better than the even more expensive Vetus "maintenance free" "marine" batteries I bought on Lanzarote (at a cost of €320 for two) which after only 11 months have started to fail and are not holding charge. Outrageous.



Then I went to Dufor chandlers to source some stainless steel wire rope to secure the dinghy. They had the rope at R$19.6 per metre but were not able to clamp eyes at the ends for me. Looks like I will have to try and revive long forgotten wire splicing skills.

Ponta do Curral to Salvador

The boat was pretty much ready for sea but the weather looked a bit ugly. Frequent heavy rain squalls from the south east and winds of F4-5.

After a cup of tea on Ron's boat I loaded the dinghy and weighed anchor at 09:10. The wind died away to almost nothing in the lee of Morro de São Paulo but resumed once the open sea was reached.

At first the wind was as forecast with a few small rain squalls. Then at around 12:00 it died away to 6-8 knots for an interval of an hour and a half during which I ran the engine. Later between 13:00 and 15:00 it was bang on the nose 10-15 Knots peaking at 22 knots in rain squalls.

Thereafter it backed more or less ENE 12-18 knots which gave a lovely sail all the way into Salvador where I anchored behind Forte São Marcelo near the PetroBras bunker barge at 19:45. Trip distance 42.52 miles.

Barbecue at Punto do Curral

In the morning I went into Valenca to do some shopping and get materials for a barbecue. The local paper carried election results. Our host on two trips, Paulino, just failed to get elected by a handful of votes. Peleteiro also failed in his attempt to become mayor. Hildecio was elected for another term.

I was to join Ron & Marli and Johan & Rosie for a beach barbecue. They were already at Punto do Curral. I left Galeão at 14:10 and anchored off the beach at 15:45.

Before anything else I wanted to scrub the dinghy which only two weeks after the last scrub was already becoming badly fouled again. Ron and Johan set about collecting firewood.

Later, just after dark, as I prepared to join Ron and Marli on the beach the heavens opened as a large passing rain squall sent them back to their boat and me back inside.

After about 45 minutes it passed and we all went ashore. After a couple of false starts the fire got going and we ate well without further rain. Ron on grill duty shared my like of slighty carbonised sausages and meat.

A not very good attempt at flash photograpy. The white squiggly lines are two torches suspended from a tree branch moving gently in the breeze.




Galeão - boat maintenance

For the past few days I've been doing more maintenance.

Firstly the bilge had to be thoroughly scrubbed and all traces of the lube oil, which leaked from a new burst Petrobras container, removed.

Then I repaired the new flexible fresh water tank which burst on the way from Cape Verde. I used a G Clamp, two pieces of wood and silicon sealant as suggested by the manufacturer pending return of the tank for the seam to be welded.


My Vetus house batteries are looking very dodgy after only 11 months. I'm having to run the engine more frequently to keep them charged. The charge indicator should turn green after charging but it stays black irrespective of how long the batteries are on charge.

On the way back from Valenca on saturday some boys were swimming horses across the river.


Another yacht arrived the other day with Rosie and Johan aboard. We all went ashore for a sunday drink. It being election day bars were supposed to closed. What this meant was the main serving counter shutters were closed but it was business as usually via a staff entrance door at the side.

Rosie and Marli enjoying some crab.

Cairu Rally

Candidate Paulino invited us to another political rally, this time in the administrative capital of the area, Cairu. I went along.

We again travelled aboard "Obrigado Meu Pae". The atmosphere was not quite as festive as last time and the boat was blacked out for navigational purposes.

A large number of boats arrived bringing supporters of the Peleteiro mayoral slate. At the dock there was a drum band and lots of flag waving.


Once all the boats had arrived a procession wandered through the town to a park where the rally was being held.


So far as I could gather on Sunday there will be elections for the post of mayor of the council which administers the islands of Tinharé, Cairu and Boipeba plus a gaggle of little islands. Councillors for the region will be elected as well.

This rally was for the Peleteiro slate. Peleteiro has been mayor before and is running against the incumbent Hildecio. He is no spring chicken and I suspect this will be his last kick at the can. He does however claim the support of president Lula and Bahia governor Jaques Wagner.

This was a large affair complete with huge stage, big screen video and an enormous sound system.



There were around 14 candidates on the Peleteiro slate. Each was given 5-10 minutes to make a speech. In between speeches an m/c geed the crowd up and loud music was played. Cue flag waving. This often happened during speeches after a punch line.

It was old fashioned stump politics as each candidate worked the crowd. We also had a video endorsement from Jaques Wagner and a few celeb endorsements.

Peleteiro is the chap in the red and white hooped shirt.


At the end of all this Peleteiro gave a longer speech after which we all returned to the boats for the trip home. I saw Peleteiro at the dock and he looked completely worn out. Hildecio is much younger and his "free" water policy is popular. I suspect Peleteiro will struggle to unseat him.

These were clustered together at anchor and there was a fine display of boat handling skills as skippers jostled for a position at the dock.


Our boat arrived back in Galáo at around 01:00.